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Beginner's Guide to CNC Conversions |
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Why Convert? If you're thinking of converting your tired lathe or mill to CNC, I recommend you do so as it can be a fun and intensely rewarding project. Before you do, it's probably a good idea to consider what you typically use it for and whether a CNC conversion will help you do it better or faster. Generally the further along the spectrum you are toward the production side, the better off you are converting. For one-off hobbying around or oddball
maintenance I wouldn't recommend it, as it tends to get in the way of
getting anything done that requires "feel" on the part of the operator.
Check out the backlash and the generally serviceability of the
machine beforehand, as CNC's tend to get run pretty hard under unforgiving
conditions.
I should also mention that one needs to be comfortable with
computers in order to use CNC effectively. You don't need to be a whiz,
but you should be comfortable navigating around with files and using
multiple programs for editing.
System Overview
You can envision a typical hobby CNC system broken down as a column of
eight elements as shown below: Lowest Level I'll discuss each of these, starting with the most familiar
lower level elements and working my way up.
The Machine
Probably the simplest piece to understand is the machine, all
the way at the bottom rung. This is the same type of machine used in
everyday operations. It can be a lathe, mill, gear cutter, injection mold
machine, or anything that has moving parts you want to control. Most
hobbyists work with small three axis milling machines like the
Sherline. A common question is whether to use the
factory lead-screws or upgrade to ballscrews. The best answer is
that it depends on the condition of the existing hardware, whether there
is physical space or some rigging issue with the conversion, and whether
you can afford it. Ballscrews are most useful on a mill where
cutting is often done in both directions. Moving forward, we need to have some way of driving this machine
automatically. A human would turn the hand wheels in order to make parts.
A CNC machine will use motors to accomplish the same thing. Servos are the best thing to have for CNC. "Servo"
is Latin for slave, which is exactly what the motors do. In a nutshell,
they're regular DC synchronous motors that are optimized for low inertia,
high acceleration, and continuously variable speed through their range and
have an integral encoder. Generally these take a lot of computing
horsepower to direct accurately since they have to be monitored and
controlled continuously, usually using a PID filter or other dedicated
driver and an encoder. These days, such things are for the most part
invisible to the user, and so there isn't a large conceptual gap between
servo driven systems and stepper driven systems.
I would recommend that a beginner to CNC use stepper motors.
They're much easier to use and far cheaper. You can connect to motor to
your machine using a rigid coupling made of aluminum. Simply bore a hole
in each end to the size shaft you need to mate, and hold it all together
with setscrews.
Some standard kits to do this are available for the
Bridgeport clones and the popular Sherline 5400 bench top mill..
Drives
The type of motor you buy influences the type of drive you
should buy. Think of the drive is an amplifier that allows a computer to
control a motor through an interface of low voltage digital
signals. For low powered machines like the Sherline lathe and mills I can
recommend the Xylotex drives as they're much cheaper.
You will need to obtain a power supply for the drives that can
supply the proper voltages and current for your drive/motor
combination. The best thing to do is to use a large linear power
supply with a capacitor filter.
Switching power supplies such as those found in computers do not
work well with the current regulation in most modern drives.
Parallel Port This is relatively easy to do but in recent days it has gotten
easier still with the introduction of parallel port breakout boards from
several manufacturers. Typically these have several relays and high
current outputs to control coolant and other goodies. Computer
This brings us to the topic of the computer itself. What kind of
computer should you use? For TurboCNC you can use anything from an old 486
PC to the latest Pentium. Most other CNC software has similar basic
requirements (EMC, Mach2, CNCPro).
I'm not currently aware of any CNC interpreters that run on a
Mac, to answer an uncommon but perfectly reasonable question.
Since TurboCNC is DOS based, you may want to install a version
of Windows in order to use your favorite CAD/CAM system on top of DOS.
TurboCNC works best with Windows 3.1, 95 and 98. Naturally you want to
make sure that your computer has a parallel port.
G-code Interpreter
The G-code interpreter (sometimes called just the interpreter) is the
program that actually does the work of sending signals out to drive your
motors and thus your machine as well.
G-code is a script language for defining the motion involved in making
a part. Here is an example of g-code:
It's important to point out the G-code involves motion only, it
has no idea of the actual shape of a part. All it knows how to do is turn
a wheel one direction for a little while then turn another wheel another
direction and so on.
Programs written in G-code can be a short as a dozen lines or as long
as millions of lines. Some programmers write all their G-code by hand and
are happy that way.
CAD/CAM
For the rest of us we have CAD/CAM software.
This is the top element of the column and at this stage one can take an
idea, represent it in CAD, and then with a few short clicks generate the
G-code to produce it in metal. CAD/CAM software is getting more powerful
all the time, and it's usually priced to match, often in the several
thousands of dollars. Although CAD/CAM software is excellent it is very common to
encounter a situation where you need to hand edit your code. Having some
basic foreknowledge will help you enormously when you get to that stage.
Afterword
I hope this gives you a good overview of how a typical CNC
conversion is laid out. I don't want to make this a how-to guide, rather
it's meant to be a sort of overview for you to understand the process as a
whole and to advice on some possible roadblocks you may
encounter. Sherline - Small bench-top mills
and lathes
Taig - Small benchtop lathes
and mills.
Harbor Freight - Retailers
of import machine tools
McMaster-Carr - The best source
for anything odd and mechanical - couplings, screws, gears, bearings,
bellows, you name it.
Camtronics - Stepper
motors, turnkey stepper and servo drive systems
Geckodrive Inc - Stepper and
servo motor drives
Xylotex - Stepper drives for
bench-top machines
Intelligent Motion Systems -
Stepper drives and power supplies. High quality.
CNCKits - Power supplies,
miscellaneous hardware and breakout boards
PMDX - Parallel port breakout boards
Campbell - Parallel port
breakout boards
Note: I'm leaving computer suppliers off this list. You
know where to find those!
DAK Engineering - Interpreter
software, DOS based, open source.
Yeager Automation -
Interpreter software, DOS based
ArtSoft - Interpreter software,
Windows based
Flashcut - Interpreter
software, Windows based with a hardware step generator
EMC - Interpreter software,
Linux based, open source.
IMS - CAD/CAM software
BobCad - CAD/CAM software
AutoDesk - CAD software with
scripting support. Industry standard.
IntelliCAD - More CAD, free
download.
MasterCAM - CAD/CAM.
Industry standard.
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